Kaziranga

We had breakfast at 8, then met up with Polash and climbed into the open jeep to go to Kaziranga. Breakfast was bananas, cereal with warm milk, scrambled eggs, toast and tea. Just as well as it felt very cold driving along in the jeep. We paid for the park, cameras and a guard with a gun and headed into the park. We started off seeing lots of birds, then Polash thought there must be a tiger not far away as there was a buffalo acting strangely and lots of crows circling round in the distance. Then he spotted an old rhino called Holyfield after the boxer as he had a great chunk out of one ear as well as having lost his unicorn! We continued to see loads of birds and then one or two distant rhino, a young wild elephant on its own. There were wild boar and hogdeer near the track and we saw a tree scratched by a tiger. There was a little owlet in a tree which turned into a pair as we drove on (1 behind the other). Along the road was a river and we saw tortoises in the water resting on logs and there was a second beautiful rhino on the opposite bank. We went on to a lake where just before it we saw a land monitor lizard. On the lake were flocks of small cormorants and pelicans. Fish were jumping in the lake. There was Pallas's fish eagle and a Brahminy kite over the lake. Heading back from here we made lunch at 12.30 and fell asleep in the sun on the veranda. We began again at 2 and made for the western range. Here we saw loads of rhino - even two mating. There were plenty of storks and geese around and we stopped at a viewing platform where a Pallas's fish eagle flew over. Just as we were about to leave Polash spotted a pair of smooth otters basking on the bank! There were lots of little pools by the road where we saw water birds - crake, rails etc. The sun was fading, so we took some sunset pics with birds flying and a stork in a tree. We also saw a baby rhino lying in the mud near its mum.
We got back in the dark having been almost run off the road by a tanker. Tea in the 'lounge' to warm up then warm showers. There was dancing again before dinner. A man was selling tea in fancy packaging that he grows ; we must mix 40% Assam with 60% Darjeeing. Mel got orange Peckoe for Vicky. Hotties in bed and so to sleep.

By lunch we have already made two trips; we began with tea at 5.30- special basil and cardamom to start the day right. Then we met Polash at the hotel entrance and off we went for our elephant ride, it was early morning misty and as we arrived at the park the sun rose from behind a hill. Quite magical in the mist, many pics were taken. Then we were off to find our elephants - one for D and M and one for E and A. Ours had a baby elephant with her. We set off into the grassland, seeing some hog deer and several birds. Suddenly there was a youngish rhino beside us with a baby. We watched and took pics as she tried to get away from us. We moved on through the elephant high grass seeing a few hog deer as the mist thinned a bit showing the trees silhouetted against the hills. As we came out into the plain we came across a large herd of swamp deer. These are bigger than the hog deer and have branching horns. We watched them or a while, then walked along a river where we saw kingfisher, stork, among others. We came to a second herd of swamp deer, and by now we were in sight of our dismounting station at the end of the ride. Close by was a female elephant with a very little baby, which our elephant stopped and trumpeted to. We dismounted, and each elephant got a banana as a reward. Then the fun started as the three little elephants came looking for more, frightening the Indian children! One slightly older one kept racing down the hill sending the kids running in all directions. The baby elephants like to eat a bit of elephant dung which is a bit disgusting when they come up to you feeling with their trunks! But we had to leave, as breakfast was waiting. This turned out to be bananas, scrambled egg, toast; then came paratha - a sort of flatbread-cum-pancake and fried pots with turmeric. We were innovative and spread them with pineapple jam; leaving the spuds.
At 9am it was time to leave again for our jungle walk. We drove east towards a tea plantation; picking up a guard on the way. Then Polash led us along a path to the side of the tea bushes and into the forest. Here we saw a capped langur quite quickly, swinging through the tall trees. We could hear calling, but no matter which way we walked, we couldn't see any more. Our guide alerted us to the presence of leeches, so we all tucked our trousers into socks. Dougal got leeches on his and flicked them away; and Polash was bitten all round his ankles. I got one on my hand when putting on my rucksack which I had on the ground, so flicked it away. Polash stretched the leech body like a rubber band, then chopped it in half with his finger nail. We walked around and then Polash spotted a Hoolock Gibbon in the high trees, feeding alongside some hornbills. Although fairly hidden, we managed to see his face with its white eyebrows - a male as he was very black.
So, we walked back to the jeep and headed back for lunch - ready to start again at 1.45. Back in the room I discovered a leech on my ankle, so had to deal with that - bloody trousers, socks and leg!
Lunch was a Chinese style banquet - very tasty. We were ready to start for the eastern range of the park. This is some distance from WGL but quieter as today is a holiday and the usual places are busy. We soon stopped as there were monkeys in the trees. We parked, then another car parked; a third slowed and almost had us all killed as there was a bus on its tail which had to swerve almost into us. The capped langurs were lovely and we watched them for a while. Off down the road again, we turned off to the park and stopped to watch some rhesus macaques by a small group of houses. There were fruit bats in the trees behind.
Once in the park we stopped to collect a guard as usual. They had some elephants there and as it was bath time, three of them walked across behind us to go down to the river. One of them looked as if she was about to give birth to twins. So we began spotting. There were loads of birds including several kingfishers, parrots and raptors; more monkeys, deer, wild boar, rhino. Our main aim was to get to Pelican Point where the White and other pelicans come to roost high up in trees in crowds! Nice light on the lake and low sun on the birds. It was time to drive back, and we got on very well when suddenly there were wild elephants by the road - not very happy to see us and one came out and trumpeted at us, so the driver backed up and five others inc. two very young ones came out of the trees and across the clearing. No 1 followed them, and then as we proceeded she turned back with the rest and rumbled at us with ears flapping.
We drove away from them, watched some water buffs cross the road, before leaving. Driving back was freezing cold and there was the usual crazy driving. We ran out of petrol just before home, but filled up from a plastic bottle the driver had behind his seat!!
Cups of tea, showers and dinner at 8 finished us off - peppery consommé and bread; cold chicken, cauliflower cheese, mixed veg and potato croquettes stuffed with peas with hot chips; fruit and custard. Probably the worst so far!

Tiger Trails Ltd Wild Grass Lodge