We were having a lie-in this morning, when suddenly some chap started up his morning raga at 6.30 and went on for about an hour. I got up and made 'bed tea' for Alan. It was quite misty outside, so still no view of the BP river. The chaps turned up to work on the stage by 8am, and we were ready for breakfast at 8.45. We had fresh orange which has that tangeriney flavour, cereal with bananas, toast and t/c. Then Deepak arrived to take us on our morning tour. We began with Dilip driving us to the 'jetty' where we negotiated a boat. We walked through throngs of people and were some source for comment among the passengers waiting for the big green metal boat that was getting ready to leave. We walked right across this to get on our fairly small wooden boat. The first stop was to see an island inhabited by 'vultures'. These turned out to be (r/b) kites, but fifty or so roosting in the few trees. On our way again, Mel spotted a Gangetic dolphin. We landed to the side of Peacock Island and clambered over the remains of a fallen down stone staircase to the main steps up to the temple. After the first flight of stairs there was a 'landing' where we found the famed golden langurs just a couple of the eight that live on the island. There were little kiosks selling plates of offerings for the pilgrims to give in at the temple. We took some pics of people feeding the monkeys; then Deepak took us up to the temple. This is a Shiva temple. There was a white gateway into the temple area and then the main building with a beautifully tiled entrance. Among the pictures on the tiles was one of Ganesh. We went into the temple and in the first room was a small shrine where some of the attendants explained the deities represented there. Then we went through to the back and down into the cellar - a minute room, where there was a holy man blessing people who brought gifts to the natural spring - believed to have been created by Shiva and another deity visiting. There were lots of cobra statues. Deepak got a blessing and a dollop of stuff on his forehead, then rang the bell and we left. On the way down the hill again, Alan and Mel got inveigled into getting our photos taken with one of the families visiting the temple. They were very nice and not so pushy as some of the encounters we have had.
We boarded the boat and made for the river bank again, passing the lines of washing which seemed to have grown. The plan now as to find some adjutant storks and we drove off into the traffic. Eventually we took a side turning and Dilup stopped the van. Then they led us into what seemed to be someone's back garden. Lo and behold, there were three Adjutant Storks standing in the far corner. As we watched another couple arrived. The owner explained that they were always there, as the market was behind her house. We moved on to another place, after mentioning that Mel wanted to buy some sweeties for the people at work. The other stork place was now full of building works so we turned round and headed off to buy some sweets. Mel had thought some little packets that we'd seen hanging up would be fine, but Deepak had other idea and took us to a fabulous Indian sweet shop. For about seven pounds we bought over two kilos of delicious Indian sweetmeats some with silver foil on top - ground nuts with cardamom etc. We also bought a menti laddu for each of us inc. Dilip who got his in a little box. Then we had to brave the awful traffic again to get back to the hotel, check-out and head for the airport. Dilip drove very carefully and we soon made it safely and in plenty of time for our flight. We said a very fond farewell to Assam and headed off into the sunset. On the flight, Mel and I had a great view of Mount Everest sticking up from the clouds as well as Kachengjunga. We were met at Kolkata airport by the guide and driver from before. This time the driver went completely mad and we all arrived white knuckled. Poor Dougal was sitting up front and must have been scared to death. But we arrived, and we eventually got to our room in the Taj Bengal, then had showers before dinner. Now we are having a quiet time before being collected at one thirty to go to the airport and fly home.
Tiger Trails Ltd
Assam Assignment
Saturday, 8 January 2005
Friday, 7 January 2005
Wild life and wild rides!
Another early start with tea at 5.30-we were ready to leave for our walk at six. No sun visible, but just light and the sound of reveille from the army camp. We walked among the fields of tea bushes, all marked up with the date of planting - some from 2000 but one group from 1900. We came to a small river where some egrets and pond herons were enjoying the early morning sun. Up in the trees there were monkeys, some very young ones playing. An adult male landed on a rotten branch which gave way and he had to fly on to a nearby branch to save himself. He sat there glaring around at all and sundry. Coming back into the plantation we were treated to the sight of two beautiful flame-backed woodpeckers. And on the other side of the path were some bronzy bee-eaters. The sun was quite high by now and getting warm, so we headed back to the bungalow for breakfast. We had tangerine juice, cornies with milk and bananas, scrambled egg, two kinds of sausages, b beans and toast and jam. All too much really. We then made our way out into the garden and sat reading in the glorious sunshine. We just stayed there until Polash came to say lunch was ready!! It was one o'clock by now. Lunch was chicken with peas and spuds, dahl, rice and perathas. Nobody was eating much and we finished with coffe and tea.
A quick gathering up of cameras and shoes and we were off to Nameri again. We just walked up the path to the river and once again saw so many birds - no less than 4 hornbills, capped langurs, niltava, red breasted parakeets, drongos, mynahs inc. hill mynas and much more. Dougal and Mel were keen to see some bean pods from the trees. They found a small one, but were unable to find a big one on the ground. There was one tree with several pods, so Polash tried knocking off a pod by throwing a stick at it – no good either. By now a group of villagers had come along and one of the men just walked up to the tree and gave it a huge shake. A snowstorm of seeds and whole pods came floating down, which provided the two with a pod each and some papery seeds. This was all very jolly. Meantime Alan and I had spotted a pair of grey headed pygmy woodpeckers. Further along the road Mel was using her lastolite to photograph some red flowers in the low sunlight. Suddenly Polash shouted 'Ah, ping-pong!' We had no idea what he was referring to, so he showed us what looked like white fungus on a bush but which was a collection of insects. When he touched them with a stick, they jumped in all directions. D & M took pics in the fading light. Now it was time to return to the van, so we set off back down the road. Nearly back at the Eco-camp, Dougal spotted a flame-backed woodpecker, then two more. They were on a bare tree with lots of holes in its trunk. As we watched some hill mynas came to a branch close to one of the holes. Apparently, they roost in the old woodpecker holes. Anyway, the woodies did not like this and tried to stop them, but the mynahs dodged the bombardment and both managed to sneek into their hole. The woodies then set up guard outside! We left them to it and got back to the van. The manager of E-c came over and spoke to us and wished us well on our way. Polash told us that this man has been written about by Mark Shand. We got back safely to the bungalow despite awful traffic and being asked for help as someone had been knocked off a bike - but the driver and Polash said there was nothing they could do. Pity.
Back at Addabarie, we have just had afternoon tea again - how can we eat any more! Dinner will be at eight. So its showers and packing time as we will be leaving at 7.30 am for Guwahati. Bed tea is ordered for 6.30.
Today was a long drive not helped by my having stomach cramps. We have all been OK up til now, and we have had some 'English' style food at the bungalow - maybe we should have stuck with Indian! We stopped only to take pics of Adjutant storks on their nests by the road side and for tea & loo at the little cafeteria where we stopped on the way up. We arrived in Guwahati about one-ish where we met up with Deepak from the Wild Grass Office here. First he took Alan to the bank, then we side stepped lunch and headed off to Sualkuchi to see the silk weavers. Another hairy drive for Dilip, who has been excellent. We arrived, and discovered that the weavers were on their midday break. Still, one or two came back in the first place and we were able to see how the looms worked. The patterns are punched out on cards which fit into the looms. These are 'read' by the loom and the appropriate warp threads are lifted for the operator to shuttle through the coloured thread to make the pattern. It is amazing what beautiful cloth they produce in this way. Here we bought some black and gold cloth. We moved on to the next workshop, where four women were weaving using the muga - locally 'processed' silk. It is goldy in colour and the weave colourful patterns into it, like the one the woman in Wild Grass was doing. Then we moved on to another place where a young lad was winding thread onto a spool ready for use. Here we were invited to drink tea while they showed us some samples. We saw one 'set' which was very Christmassy and we could use it as a table cloth; so we got that too. Then Mel asked if we could go back to the second place where she had seen a special muga cloth with a black and red design, to go with her bedroom. All our purchases were negotiated by Deepak and Dilip, but still cost about £50 altogether.
It was time to head back to Guwahati, so off we went as the sun was setting. The villages were thronged with the evening traffic- cows being brought home, women meeting together for a gossip, people buying stuff for their meals, bicycles, rickshaws, motor bikes, tuc-tucs and great big hairy trucks. Amongst all this were wandering dogs and goats, you wonder how they survive. On the approach to the bridge D tried to take a pic of a sign saying 'Photo prohib', but Deepak was very worried and said he wasn't to, especially as we were in a queue of traffic with a policeman standing at the back of our van. The queue was really bad and due to a bus which had broken its back axle - the offside back two tires and axle were sitting by the edge of the road quite separately. The traffic had to take it in turns to get round it within the confines of the bridge. We soon got to the Hotel Brama Putra, on the banks of said river. Not as good as Taj Bengal, but not as bad as the Luit in Tezpur. We managed to have a little rest, shower and change before dinner at 7.15. This was Dom Aloo Kashmiri, Garlic chicken, Paneer Butter Masala, veggie fried rice, raita and naan. Then cups of tea only as the ice cream didnt put in an appearance - a misunderstanding we think. There is a conference going on in town, and one of the meetings was going on in the hall in the hotel. All of a sudden the lobby was full of people and a chap in a white Indian suit and Neru hat was escorted to the lift and about 5000 Indians tried to get in with him. Luckily sense prevailed and away he went, to be followed by subsequent lifts full. We elected to walk upstairs reckoning that was safer than getting stuck in the lift if the power went out! So this is the last night in India as tomorrow we get back to Kolkata and our flight home at four in the morning Sat night/Sun morn. Tiger Trails Ltd Balipara Heritage House
A quick gathering up of cameras and shoes and we were off to Nameri again. We just walked up the path to the river and once again saw so many birds - no less than 4 hornbills, capped langurs, niltava, red breasted parakeets, drongos, mynahs inc. hill mynas and much more. Dougal and Mel were keen to see some bean pods from the trees. They found a small one, but were unable to find a big one on the ground. There was one tree with several pods, so Polash tried knocking off a pod by throwing a stick at it – no good either. By now a group of villagers had come along and one of the men just walked up to the tree and gave it a huge shake. A snowstorm of seeds and whole pods came floating down, which provided the two with a pod each and some papery seeds. This was all very jolly. Meantime Alan and I had spotted a pair of grey headed pygmy woodpeckers. Further along the road Mel was using her lastolite to photograph some red flowers in the low sunlight. Suddenly Polash shouted 'Ah, ping-pong!' We had no idea what he was referring to, so he showed us what looked like white fungus on a bush but which was a collection of insects. When he touched them with a stick, they jumped in all directions. D & M took pics in the fading light. Now it was time to return to the van, so we set off back down the road. Nearly back at the Eco-camp, Dougal spotted a flame-backed woodpecker, then two more. They were on a bare tree with lots of holes in its trunk. As we watched some hill mynas came to a branch close to one of the holes. Apparently, they roost in the old woodpecker holes. Anyway, the woodies did not like this and tried to stop them, but the mynahs dodged the bombardment and both managed to sneek into their hole. The woodies then set up guard outside! We left them to it and got back to the van. The manager of E-c came over and spoke to us and wished us well on our way. Polash told us that this man has been written about by Mark Shand. We got back safely to the bungalow despite awful traffic and being asked for help as someone had been knocked off a bike - but the driver and Polash said there was nothing they could do. Pity.
Back at Addabarie, we have just had afternoon tea again - how can we eat any more! Dinner will be at eight. So its showers and packing time as we will be leaving at 7.30 am for Guwahati. Bed tea is ordered for 6.30.
Today was a long drive not helped by my having stomach cramps. We have all been OK up til now, and we have had some 'English' style food at the bungalow - maybe we should have stuck with Indian! We stopped only to take pics of Adjutant storks on their nests by the road side and for tea & loo at the little cafeteria where we stopped on the way up. We arrived in Guwahati about one-ish where we met up with Deepak from the Wild Grass Office here. First he took Alan to the bank, then we side stepped lunch and headed off to Sualkuchi to see the silk weavers. Another hairy drive for Dilip, who has been excellent. We arrived, and discovered that the weavers were on their midday break. Still, one or two came back in the first place and we were able to see how the looms worked. The patterns are punched out on cards which fit into the looms. These are 'read' by the loom and the appropriate warp threads are lifted for the operator to shuttle through the coloured thread to make the pattern. It is amazing what beautiful cloth they produce in this way. Here we bought some black and gold cloth. We moved on to the next workshop, where four women were weaving using the muga - locally 'processed' silk. It is goldy in colour and the weave colourful patterns into it, like the one the woman in Wild Grass was doing. Then we moved on to another place where a young lad was winding thread onto a spool ready for use. Here we were invited to drink tea while they showed us some samples. We saw one 'set' which was very Christmassy and we could use it as a table cloth; so we got that too. Then Mel asked if we could go back to the second place where she had seen a special muga cloth with a black and red design, to go with her bedroom. All our purchases were negotiated by Deepak and Dilip, but still cost about £50 altogether.
It was time to head back to Guwahati, so off we went as the sun was setting. The villages were thronged with the evening traffic- cows being brought home, women meeting together for a gossip, people buying stuff for their meals, bicycles, rickshaws, motor bikes, tuc-tucs and great big hairy trucks. Amongst all this were wandering dogs and goats, you wonder how they survive. On the approach to the bridge D tried to take a pic of a sign saying 'Photo prohib', but Deepak was very worried and said he wasn't to, especially as we were in a queue of traffic with a policeman standing at the back of our van. The queue was really bad and due to a bus which had broken its back axle - the offside back two tires and axle were sitting by the edge of the road quite separately. The traffic had to take it in turns to get round it within the confines of the bridge. We soon got to the Hotel Brama Putra, on the banks of said river. Not as good as Taj Bengal, but not as bad as the Luit in Tezpur. We managed to have a little rest, shower and change before dinner at 7.15. This was Dom Aloo Kashmiri, Garlic chicken, Paneer Butter Masala, veggie fried rice, raita and naan. Then cups of tea only as the ice cream didnt put in an appearance - a misunderstanding we think. There is a conference going on in town, and one of the meetings was going on in the hall in the hotel. All of a sudden the lobby was full of people and a chap in a white Indian suit and Neru hat was escorted to the lift and about 5000 Indians tried to get in with him. Luckily sense prevailed and away he went, to be followed by subsequent lifts full. We elected to walk upstairs reckoning that was safer than getting stuck in the lift if the power went out! So this is the last night in India as tomorrow we get back to Kolkata and our flight home at four in the morning Sat night/Sun morn. Tiger Trails Ltd Balipara Heritage House
Labels:
Assam,
Balipara Heritage House,
Guwahati,
Hotel Brama Putra,
Nameri,
Sualkuchi,
Tiger Trails
Location:
Guwahati, Assam, India
Thursday, 6 January 2005
Nameri
Today we got up completely crocked by the hard, cold beds; having been woken at 4.30 by the muezzin. Breakfast at 8.15 was cornies completely soggied by pretty hot milk, sweet scrambled eggs and slightly leathery toast! Still, no Basils at breakfast, and Polash soon arrived to take us off to Nameri. We drove for about one hour through the road works and road blocks - they have hand made roads here, and arrived at Eco-camp by ten-ish. The camp is lovely, about a dozen cabins and tents set around the edge of the compound. Alan and I are in cabin Dizee with D&M next door in a very superior tent with mossie net windows and a jazzy interior. The beds are bamboo frames and each unit has an outhouse with basin, loo and shower. The manager walked across and met Alan going to investigate the red fronted parrots on a tree in the compound. He was a tea plantation manager and took over here when he retired. A very knowledgeable man , he is licking it into shape, as Alan gathered that it was somewhat run down. They served us tea, coffee and biscuits before we set off for a walk down to the river with Polash. We never made the river, but saw nearly twenty birds, many of which were 'new' to be added to the list. We had to turn back for lunch - eating yet again. This time we had chicken, cauli, beans with spuds, rice, dhal and not only chapatis but popadoms, too. For dessert there was a delicious village made yog with a liquid molasses sauce we think is called 'jaggery'. We ended with tea and coffee.
Soon it was time to go down to the river to catch the boat across to the reserve. Down at the riverside there was a great picnic going with loud music, bonfire etc. The people had passed us earlier with their loud music blaring out from the back of a couple of bikes. Huge speakers and a battery were strapped to the parcel carriers.
The ferryman rowed us across and we started spotting birds immediately. We saw some beautifully coloured ones - the barbets and flycatchers of several types (pied and a blue one, too). Orioles and woodpeckers, glossy drongos and one racket-tailed. Then Polash spotted a troupe of rhesus monkeys jumping around in the trees. We walked on a bit further, but then we had to turn back as it was ten to four and the sun would be soon setting. Just before we came out at the river there was a Hill Myna up in the trees. We walked down to the riverbank and watched as the sun was quickly setting. A common kingfisher was perched on a bare trunk in the river and the swifts were swooping about. Then there were flocks of birds flying close to the water. These were pratincoles and they twisted and turned up and down stream. But now we had to hurry to the ferry, and were rowed across the still river in the pink streaky reflection of the sunset after glow. Back at Eco-camp we showered - Alan and I from buckets of hot water, then sat on the veranda as the electricity came and went and the generator did,too. Dinner is at 8pm. The bird count has reached 110. We saw fire flies in the bushes behind our rooms – quite fantastic. Alan couldn’t find his specs case, but eventually located a rather chewed wreck, which was presumably taken by one of the camp dogs!
We have just arrived at the tea estate bungalow where we are to stay for two nights. We have staff running around after us - firstly serving us afternoon tea of cucumber and tomato sandwiches and almond madiera cake.
Today we were up at 5.30 to be ready to go walking across the river. As we waited for the boat, watching a spectacular sunrise, three chaps arrived with e-n-o-r-m-o-u-s monoculars on tripods and notebooks, in which they were recording their sightings. It turned out that they were serious French twitchers!
We went across the river and immediately saw a line of buffs walking down to the shore. We walked up to the guards’ village, but turned inland there into a new area. Polash spotted a tiny bird, but couldn't identify it, but we started to see all the little birds from yesterday. Then we walked down into an open area and along, spotting a serpent eagle looking quite honey fronted in the low sun. There were some cotton trees flowering with red blooms, and these trees were covered in birds. We saw several very pretty starlings, a spider hunter, bulbuls and green leafbirds(?). We turned off this path and as we walked along the guard asked us to keep very quiet as we were nearing the place where the white-winged ducks could be. These are very rare. We arrived to find only a forktail, a river lapwing and a wagtail. So we retraced our steps, pausing to inspect a rather dodgy lookout platform with some very dangerous steps. As Dougal looked back he spotted something in a tree at the far distance. This turned out to be a giant jungle squirrel, which must be pretty big as it was clearly visible even at a distance. Back on the main path again, we crossed a small stream via a sort of causeway of stones, and heard something crashing about quite near. This was a wild boar which Mel glimpsed charging along an embankment. Here we watched another serpent eagle, then turned off the main path again, walking as quietly as possible down to another bend of the stream. This time we saw no wildlife, but we did see the elephant watering hole. This is a natural spring bubbling up into a small pool. We could see tiny particles of mica floating up, and the sand around the spring was quite grey-black. So no rare ducks, but interesting, nevertheless. Dougal was busy making close-ups of purple flowers (ageratum), and there were some dew-spangled spiderwebs. We were back on the main path, when A&M saw a tree full of fantastic blue birds. These were fairy bluebirds and the male is again spectacular in the sun. The female is more all over turquoise with slightly wine coloured edges to her wings. As it had now almost got to 9.50 we were getting late for the ferry again, so hurried back to the river. We were soon across, and our driver whisked us down the track to Eco-camp for breakfast. Polash had arranged an Assam speciality - yog with 'flat' cold rice and puffed rice with sugar - sounds a weird mixture, but very refreshing. There was of course, scrambled egg and toast and coffee or tea, too. In the compound the carpenter was putting together some fabulous rustic bamboo chairs and a bench. They are also constructing a long woven length of banana leaves about two or three meters long which may be used as fencing. Then we had to get organised for the rafting experience- some juggling with the camera equipment into waterproof side bags, Tevas etc. and we were off with two boats on the roof, life jackets and four boatmen in the back of the van. Just the ten of us in the van! The driver took us away from the river, through the village where they make the yoghurt and along for about twenty minutes. We arrived at the river quite a long way up stream where some locals were having one of their famous picnics with loud music blaring. The boats were launched and in we climbed - Alan and I in one with two rowers and Dougal and Mel with Polash and the other two boatmen in the other. The first rapids were a bit splashy and cameras had to be dried! But after that all was OK. We saw common mergansers and several Brahminy ducks, some cormorants and little swifts scooping up flies from the surface of the water. Suddenly Polash had the boatmen paddle across the river. He had spotted some ibis bills - a rare bird and an endangered species. We managed to watch them for a while, although they flew up stream a little way from us. It meant D, M and I standing in the shallow water. This was a very good sighting. More rapids and river bends, and we came to a sandy island where we disembarked to stretch the legs. There were cormorants and brahminies across on the opposite bank, as well as two male mergansers. Then we were back in the boat and off down stream, spotting kingfishers and a fish eagle. The others crossed to one side of a shallow stony bar and we then saw that it was full of little grey birds. As they took off we took pics, they were the flocks of pratincoles we had seen last evening.
After more rapids, and a slide past some stony cliffs, we came round the last bend and saw the ferry point. We put in just above this, and the driver was waiting for us. The van was soon loaded up and we were back at Eco-camp in no time. We dried off, tidied up and then headed across for soup and egg butties (poor Dougal!). It was time for us to leave, so we said goodbye to all the very pleasant and helpful people who looked after us during our short stay. It was about a half hour drive to get here at Balipara Heritage House. We were greeted with the afternoon tea! Then we got organised and sat in the library for a while, looking at Salim Ali's birds of India. One of the staff came and invited us into the drawing room for pre-dinner drinks in front of a roaring log fire.We have just finished dinner -tom soup, lamb byriani, aloo, salad and raita, ironmongers rice pud, and are sitting in front of a log fire. Everyone has been fantastically attentive - like going back a century in time, but we were woefully underdressed! Time for bed as we will get bed tea at 5.30 again! Tiger Trails Ltd Balipara Heritage House
Soon it was time to go down to the river to catch the boat across to the reserve. Down at the riverside there was a great picnic going with loud music, bonfire etc. The people had passed us earlier with their loud music blaring out from the back of a couple of bikes. Huge speakers and a battery were strapped to the parcel carriers.
The ferryman rowed us across and we started spotting birds immediately. We saw some beautifully coloured ones - the barbets and flycatchers of several types (pied and a blue one, too). Orioles and woodpeckers, glossy drongos and one racket-tailed. Then Polash spotted a troupe of rhesus monkeys jumping around in the trees. We walked on a bit further, but then we had to turn back as it was ten to four and the sun would be soon setting. Just before we came out at the river there was a Hill Myna up in the trees. We walked down to the riverbank and watched as the sun was quickly setting. A common kingfisher was perched on a bare trunk in the river and the swifts were swooping about. Then there were flocks of birds flying close to the water. These were pratincoles and they twisted and turned up and down stream. But now we had to hurry to the ferry, and were rowed across the still river in the pink streaky reflection of the sunset after glow. Back at Eco-camp we showered - Alan and I from buckets of hot water, then sat on the veranda as the electricity came and went and the generator did,too. Dinner is at 8pm. The bird count has reached 110. We saw fire flies in the bushes behind our rooms – quite fantastic. Alan couldn’t find his specs case, but eventually located a rather chewed wreck, which was presumably taken by one of the camp dogs!
We have just arrived at the tea estate bungalow where we are to stay for two nights. We have staff running around after us - firstly serving us afternoon tea of cucumber and tomato sandwiches and almond madiera cake.
Today we were up at 5.30 to be ready to go walking across the river. As we waited for the boat, watching a spectacular sunrise, three chaps arrived with e-n-o-r-m-o-u-s monoculars on tripods and notebooks, in which they were recording their sightings. It turned out that they were serious French twitchers!
We went across the river and immediately saw a line of buffs walking down to the shore. We walked up to the guards’ village, but turned inland there into a new area. Polash spotted a tiny bird, but couldn't identify it, but we started to see all the little birds from yesterday. Then we walked down into an open area and along, spotting a serpent eagle looking quite honey fronted in the low sun. There were some cotton trees flowering with red blooms, and these trees were covered in birds. We saw several very pretty starlings, a spider hunter, bulbuls and green leafbirds(?). We turned off this path and as we walked along the guard asked us to keep very quiet as we were nearing the place where the white-winged ducks could be. These are very rare. We arrived to find only a forktail, a river lapwing and a wagtail. So we retraced our steps, pausing to inspect a rather dodgy lookout platform with some very dangerous steps. As Dougal looked back he spotted something in a tree at the far distance. This turned out to be a giant jungle squirrel, which must be pretty big as it was clearly visible even at a distance. Back on the main path again, we crossed a small stream via a sort of causeway of stones, and heard something crashing about quite near. This was a wild boar which Mel glimpsed charging along an embankment. Here we watched another serpent eagle, then turned off the main path again, walking as quietly as possible down to another bend of the stream. This time we saw no wildlife, but we did see the elephant watering hole. This is a natural spring bubbling up into a small pool. We could see tiny particles of mica floating up, and the sand around the spring was quite grey-black. So no rare ducks, but interesting, nevertheless. Dougal was busy making close-ups of purple flowers (ageratum), and there were some dew-spangled spiderwebs. We were back on the main path, when A&M saw a tree full of fantastic blue birds. These were fairy bluebirds and the male is again spectacular in the sun. The female is more all over turquoise with slightly wine coloured edges to her wings. As it had now almost got to 9.50 we were getting late for the ferry again, so hurried back to the river. We were soon across, and our driver whisked us down the track to Eco-camp for breakfast. Polash had arranged an Assam speciality - yog with 'flat' cold rice and puffed rice with sugar - sounds a weird mixture, but very refreshing. There was of course, scrambled egg and toast and coffee or tea, too. In the compound the carpenter was putting together some fabulous rustic bamboo chairs and a bench. They are also constructing a long woven length of banana leaves about two or three meters long which may be used as fencing. Then we had to get organised for the rafting experience- some juggling with the camera equipment into waterproof side bags, Tevas etc. and we were off with two boats on the roof, life jackets and four boatmen in the back of the van. Just the ten of us in the van! The driver took us away from the river, through the village where they make the yoghurt and along for about twenty minutes. We arrived at the river quite a long way up stream where some locals were having one of their famous picnics with loud music blaring. The boats were launched and in we climbed - Alan and I in one with two rowers and Dougal and Mel with Polash and the other two boatmen in the other. The first rapids were a bit splashy and cameras had to be dried! But after that all was OK. We saw common mergansers and several Brahminy ducks, some cormorants and little swifts scooping up flies from the surface of the water. Suddenly Polash had the boatmen paddle across the river. He had spotted some ibis bills - a rare bird and an endangered species. We managed to watch them for a while, although they flew up stream a little way from us. It meant D, M and I standing in the shallow water. This was a very good sighting. More rapids and river bends, and we came to a sandy island where we disembarked to stretch the legs. There were cormorants and brahminies across on the opposite bank, as well as two male mergansers. Then we were back in the boat and off down stream, spotting kingfishers and a fish eagle. The others crossed to one side of a shallow stony bar and we then saw that it was full of little grey birds. As they took off we took pics, they were the flocks of pratincoles we had seen last evening.
After more rapids, and a slide past some stony cliffs, we came round the last bend and saw the ferry point. We put in just above this, and the driver was waiting for us. The van was soon loaded up and we were back at Eco-camp in no time. We dried off, tidied up and then headed across for soup and egg butties (poor Dougal!). It was time for us to leave, so we said goodbye to all the very pleasant and helpful people who looked after us during our short stay. It was about a half hour drive to get here at Balipara Heritage House. We were greeted with the afternoon tea! Then we got organised and sat in the library for a while, looking at Salim Ali's birds of India. One of the staff came and invited us into the drawing room for pre-dinner drinks in front of a roaring log fire.We have just finished dinner -tom soup, lamb byriani, aloo, salad and raita, ironmongers rice pud, and are sitting in front of a log fire. Everyone has been fantastically attentive - like going back a century in time, but we were woefully underdressed! Time for bed as we will get bed tea at 5.30 again! Tiger Trails Ltd Balipara Heritage House
Labels:
Assam,
Balipara Heritage House,
Eco-camp,
Nameri,
Tiger Trails
Location:
Nameri National Park, 784103
Monday, 3 January 2005
Saturday, 1 January 2005
Kaziranga
Labels:
Assam,
Kaziranga,
Tiger Trails,
Wild Grass Lodge
Location:
Kaziranga National Park, Assam, India
Wednesday, 29 December 2004
Arrival
We were met by the Tiger Trails man and Toyota van and drove to the centre and our hotel - the Taj Bengal, and got to 'bed' at around 5am. Breakfast would be at 9.30, which we made! All quite normal. After we walked out to the pool and saw some tiny striped squirrels playing around the sun loungers. We could see hooded crows and kites circling high overhead. There were wagtails hopping around the pool and little sunbirds in the trees. We wandered along the hotel shops; sat in the lobby and finally went back to our rooms for a rest. A guide met us in the lobby at 13.00 to take us on a city tour in the maroon Toyota van. We saw lots of yellow taxis all honking their horns just like our driver who squeezed into non-existent gaps in the traffic. We drove by some great Victorian buildings and saw the goats grazing on the Maidan along with cricketers, family picnics and general milling about. First stop was Queen Vic's Memorial set in acres of gardens where the locals picnic and play cricket. Next door is the huge race track for horse racing! It was very interesting. We next drove along to a riverside view point to see the new and impressive suspension bridge (4 lanes each way toll bridge) built only a couple of years ago. People were coming to bathe in the rather murky water of the Hugli River a tributary of the Holy Ganges. Mel claims to have seen a dolphin in the water - then we walked back over the railway track for the van. Now we drove over the old bridge and back - it seemed even busier. Then Asif took us to the wonderful Paresnath Jain Temple dedicated to the tenth of twenty four ‘perfect souls’. We took off shoes to go inside where we saw the opulent interior including the 19th century chandeliers from Paris and Brussels.
Next was a 'short cut' through the back streets and we watched the local people rushing home from work. Eventually we were dropped off with Asif and walked along the shops, had pomegranate juice, saw the old cinema showing 'Oceans Twelve' - not out in UK yet! Also loads of motor bikes parked including an Enfield or two. We piled back in the van and headed for the hotel. Tea in our room; a snooze, shower and change; then a magnificent meal at the Sarangaon restaurant in the hotel. Now totally exhausted its time for bed!
We breakfasted early - after a jet-lagged night. The guide met us at 9am and whisked us off to the airport. Efficient check in then several security checks before waiting at the gate. Another check as we boarded and relaxed into our business class seats. A quick taste of chicken, fish, paneer and cauli curry with cashew roll. A slice of choc cake and tea. Then into land and so fast through the airport and out to the TaTa Sumo to drive to Wild Grass Resort, Kaziranga. On the plane Dougal saw lots of mountains including, possibly, Kachenjunga and Makalu. The drive was quite hair raising and we saw the road being made by hand - men and women placing stones, heating up tarmac etc. Arriving in Wild Grass we were taken to our rooms and invited to dinner as soon as possible. We heard music and they told us there was dancing, but we had missed most of it, so we will visit it tomorrow. Tiger Trails Ltd
Location:
Kolkata, West Bengal, India
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