Last gasps in Guwahati

We were having a lie-in this morning, when suddenly some chap started up his morning raga at 6.30 and went on for about an hour. I got up and made 'bed tea' for Alan. It was quite misty outside, so still no view of the BP river. The chaps turned up to work on the stage by 8am, and we were ready for breakfast at 8.45. We had fresh orange which has that tangeriney flavour, cereal with bananas, toast and t/c. Then Deepak arrived to take us on our morning tour. We began with Dilip driving us to the 'jetty' where we negotiated a boat. We walked through throngs of people and were some source for comment among the passengers waiting for the big green metal boat that was getting ready to leave. We walked right across this to get on our fairly small wooden boat. The first stop was to see an island inhabited by 'vultures'. These turned out to be (r/b) kites, but fifty or so roosting in the few trees. On our way again, Mel spotted a Gangetic dolphin. We landed to the side of Peacock Island and clambered over the remains of a fallen down stone staircase to the main steps up to the temple. After the first flight of stairs there was a 'landing' where we found the famed golden langurs just a couple of the eight that live on the island. There were little kiosks selling plates of offerings for the pilgrims to give in at the temple. We took some pics of people feeding the monkeys; then Deepak took us up to the temple. This is a Shiva temple. There was a white gateway into the temple area and then the main building with a beautifully tiled entrance. Among the pictures on the tiles was one of Ganesh. We went into the temple and in the first room was a small shrine where some of the attendants explained the deities represented there. Then we went through to the back and down into the cellar - a minute room, where there was a holy man blessing people who brought gifts to the natural spring - believed to have been created by Shiva and another deity visiting. There were lots of cobra statues. Deepak got a blessing and a dollop of stuff on his forehead, then rang the bell and we left. On the way down the hill again, Alan and Mel got inveigled into getting our photos taken with one of the families visiting the temple. They were very nice and not so pushy as some of the encounters we have had.
We boarded the boat and made for the river bank again, passing the lines of washing which seemed to have grown. The plan now as to find some adjutant storks and we drove off into the traffic. Eventually we took a side turning and Dilup stopped the van. Then they led us into what seemed to be someone's back garden. Lo and behold, there were three Adjutant Storks standing in the far corner. As we watched another couple arrived. The owner explained that they were always there, as the market was behind her house. We moved on to another place, after mentioning that Mel wanted to buy some sweeties for the people at work. The other stork place was now full of building works so we turned round and headed off to buy some sweets. Mel had thought some little packets that we'd seen hanging up would be fine, but Deepak had other idea and took us to a fabulous Indian sweet shop. For about seven pounds we bought over two kilos of delicious Indian sweetmeats some with silver foil on top - ground nuts with cardamom etc. We also bought a menti laddu for each of us inc. Dilip who got his in a little box. Then we had to brave the awful traffic again to get back to the hotel, check-out and head for the airport. Dilip drove very carefully and we soon made it safely and in plenty of time for our flight. We said a very fond farewell to Assam and headed off into the sunset. On the flight, Mel and I had a great view of Mount Everest sticking up from the clouds as well as Kachengjunga. We were met at Kolkata airport by the guide and driver from before. This time the driver went completely mad and we all arrived white knuckled. Poor Dougal was sitting up front and must have been scared to death. But we arrived, and we eventually got to our room in the Taj Bengal, then had showers before dinner. Now we are having a quiet time before being collected at one thirty to go to the airport and fly home. Tiger Trails Ltd

Arrival

We had a great flight - sitting in 'plus' seats so we could stretch our legs for our nine hour flight. The pilot pulled out at the last minute citing a too strong tail wind, so he flew round and landed the other way! We were about an hour late due to a late take off - it was a full and very busy flight.
We were met by the Tiger Trails man and Toyota van and drove to the centre and our hotel - the Taj Bengal, and got to 'bed' at around 5am. Breakfast would be at 9.30, which we made! All quite normal. After we walked out to the pool and saw some tiny striped squirrels playing around the sun loungers. We could see hooded crows and kites circling high overhead. There were wagtails hopping around the pool and little sunbirds in the trees. We wandered along the hotel shops; sat in the lobby and finally went back to our rooms for a rest. A guide met us in the lobby at 13.00 to take us on a city tour in the maroon Toyota van. We saw lots of yellow taxis all honking their horns just like our driver who squeezed into non-existent gaps in the traffic. We drove by some great Victorian buildings and saw the goats grazing on the Maidan along with cricketers, family picnics and general milling about. First stop was Queen Vic's Memorial set in acres of gardens where the locals picnic and play cricket. Next door is the huge race track for horse racing! It was very interesting. We next drove along to a riverside view point to see the new and impressive suspension bridge (4 lanes each way toll bridge) built only a couple of years ago. People were coming to bathe in the rather murky water of the Hugli River a tributary of the Holy Ganges. Mel claims to have seen a dolphin in the water - then we walked back over the railway track for the van. Now we drove over the old bridge and back - it seemed even busier. Then Asif took us to the wonderful Paresnath Jain Temple dedicated to the tenth of twenty four ‘perfect souls’. We took off shoes to go inside where we saw the opulent interior including the 19th century chandeliers from Paris and Brussels.
Next was a 'short cut' through the back streets and we watched the local people rushing home from work. Eventually we were dropped off with Asif and walked along the shops, had pomegranate juice, saw the old cinema showing 'Oceans Twelve' - not out in UK yet! Also loads of motor bikes parked including an Enfield or two. We piled back in the van and headed for the hotel. Tea in our room; a snooze, shower and change; then a magnificent meal at the Sarangaon restaurant in the hotel. Now totally exhausted its time for bed!

We breakfasted early - after a jet-lagged night. The guide met us at 9am and whisked us off to the airport. Efficient check in then several security checks before waiting at the gate. Another check as we boarded and relaxed into our business class seats. A quick taste of chicken, fish, paneer and cauli curry with cashew roll. A slice of choc cake and tea. Then into land and so fast through the airport and out to the TaTa Sumo to drive to Wild Grass Resort, Kaziranga. On the plane Dougal saw lots of mountains including, possibly, Kachenjunga and Makalu. The drive was quite hair raising and we saw the road being made by hand - men and women placing stones, heating up tarmac etc. Arriving in Wild Grass we were taken to our rooms and invited to dinner as soon as possible. We heard music and they told us there was dancing, but we had missed most of it, so we will visit it tomorrow. Tiger Trails Ltd